We often inherit lawns that have been either neglected and so have developed problems thanks to the lawn being too long, or lawns that have been mown terribly short and so are very stressed.

I suppose it makes sense, many plants like regular, but gentle “pruning” and bush out and thrive as a result of not getting too leggy, and conversely if they are cut back harshly and is very little leaf for photosynthesis then the plant will not be able to recover.

Here are our 6 top mowing tips for a great lawn:

1. Never cut the grass lower than 2.5 cms (1 inch). This length is particularly great for creating those all important stripes with a mower that has a roller on the back.
2. Never cut off more than 1/3rd of the growth at a time, as this can shock the grass plants.
3. Mow at least once a week during the season from March to October and longer if circumstances dictate. Long grass tends to lead to a thinner sward and weak grass plants.
4. Alternate the direction in which you cut the grass, this stops the grass getting used to growing in one direction, which can create additional thatch and also stops tram lines from wheeled mowers.
5. Always keep your mower blades sharp. This helps the grass plants to resist disease and avoids the ends of the sward having an unattractive ripped brown edge.
6. If you can, avoid mowers which have no height adjustment. Scalping is sadly often the result in mowers that do not allow the flexibility of raising the blades especially if your lawn is uneven. This rather unforgiving nature of the mower leads to long term brown/bare patches so these mowers are best avoided all together.

Our metal edging has a brown finish and is manufactured to resemble neatly cut lawn edges. It is an all in one system that does not require unsightly staking and once installed it has a clean smooth appearance.

It is totally weather resistant and maintenance free. Of course it also has the advantage that if you have a roller on your mower you can mow over the edges almost eliminating the need for edging shears!

As this is a  perfect winter job we are now booking in site surveys for clients who are interested – so please do get in touch either by email or by calling on 020 8417 1752 and we can reserve you a slot in the diary.

There are two sorts of Fox Fencing that we have tested; a battery driven fence and a mains driven fence. Each type delivers a high voltage non lethal discharge through wires placed at 12.5 centimetres and 22.5 centimetres from the ground, suspended on dark green plastic posts. Both systems work equally well but we prefer to install the mains driven variety simply because one then avoids the need to consider recharging the battery at intervals – although this is only possible if you have an accessible (circuit breaker protected) outside 3 pin point.

The prices range from £425 plus Vat to £675 plus Vat and we can be more precise about this after we have completed a survey. These prices include one ‘after sales’ visit to check that all is working properly. Further visits if required are £38 plus Vat per visit.

We’re looking at other alternatives, which you may indeed like to try yourself, including ultrasonic devices, (like this one: Fox Repeller FoxWatch) that emits a noise at a frequency that will distress the fox, and various sprays and scent repellents, and even a water spray “scarecrow”  (Water Pest Repeller) that has a motion sensor and a water jet attachment. (This will of course have the added benefit of watering your lawn!)

There are several things that can be done to help, including properly preparing your lawn during the spring, by feeding, aerating, and generally helping the grass gross strong roots. Its is also important not to mow your lawn too short. A slightly longer lawn will help trap whatever moisture there it.

Most importantly, and perhaps most obviously is to water your lawn. During periods of hot and dry weather (and especially if you have recently seeded) we recommend watering every day. The best solution to do this, is to use a sprinker, or install an irrigation system, which typically will embed sprinkler heads within or close to the lawn.

We’ve just started working with an irrigation company which offers systems that do just that. We’ve seen them in action and they are very good. Typically they install “intelligent” computer controller irrigation i.e. its works on a system but responds to existing water levels.

We’re also particularly impressed by their solution to the enviromental concerns surrounding use of water in your garden – they can use “grey water” (recyled from other domestic uses) or even rainwater (stored in underground tanks).

If you are interested please give us a call in the office and we can point you in the right direction 0800 0612606 or visit Watermatic Ltd (mention you found them through us and we can liase with them on the right system).

If your lawn is staring to look a little “grey” like mine then it is ready for some water. I am sure you remember that the top tip for watering lawns is to water deeply once or twice a week. If you’re worried about how much to put on, place a cup in the way of the sprinkler and fill this to about 3-4 cms.

This should have an almost immediate effect of greening up your lawn – especially as we will have recently fertilised it. Lawns that are in full sun are looking particularly parched at the moment.

The seed needs to be kept damp to ensure good germination rates. The best way of doing this is little and often, so do please use a fine spray on your watering can or hose every other day or every day if really warm. Avoid flooding the area or washing the seeds into ‘clumps’ The soil temperature is gradually rising and the gentle watering will make sure that the seed is in the best condition to take full advantage of the late spring growing conditions.

If you can’t see any little green shoots very soon, don’t panic! Seeding takes about 2 to 3 weeks to germinate depending on the position (areas in full sun will of course be getting more warmth than shady areas).

This is the bossy bit: Please try to stay off the seeding as much as possible for 3 weeks, then allow only light traffic for a further 2 weeks.

As to mowing, wait until the seed has germinated if you possibly can. If you feel you have to mow as the grass is very long, mow on the very highest setting and test an area, as you risk sucking up all the seed when you go over it with the mower. If the seeding has been done in patches, try to avoid these altogether.

Along with being interviewed by several radio stations, Rosa also provided a journalist from a prominent national paper with some quotes and advice about how to deal with this pernicious lawn problem.

Here is the article in all its glory: Rosa in the press (Although we’ve never seen anything as pink as in these pictures!)

Foxes mark their territory with faeces which is why one will some times see faeces on fences, walls and compost heaps as well as on lawns and flower/vegetable beds. Fox faeces is a bio hazard and contains a number of pathogens and other risks to human health. It should be removed very carefully, preferably with disposable gloves.

Foxes can be trapped (but not poisoned or gassed) and then dispatched humanely. (It is against the law to release urban foxes into the countryside). Trapping is a short term solution only; a territory once left empty will soon be re-occupied by another fox family and trapping services are usually expensive, typically anything between £250 and £500 per visit. Shooting, although allowed by law, is not usually an option for most people.

So what to do……?

Ideally one would want to keep foxes out of one’s garden before they become established and we have been working with a manufacturer to provide a non lethal fox deterrent which had proved very successful in a countryside environment.

The deterrent is an electric fence which delivers a non lethal but high voltage discharge. It has a low profile, can be either mains or battery driven and need be in place for only a matter of a month or two after which time it can be removed until foxes, usually different ones, start revisiting when it can be reinstalled again, once more for a short period. There is no ‘once and for all’ solution and the fence will need to be deployed every so often if you are in an area troubled by foxes but it will mean no fox digging, no faeces and no hazards to children and pets.

There are over ten thousand urban foxes in the London Metropolitan Area so one can see the size of the problem and why foxes present no easy solution.

Following our own extensive testing, we can now confirm that the system works extremely well in an urban setting. We have also trialled a version for badgers which also works very well, and anecdotally we’re told that squirrels have apparently also been deterred in gardens where this is installed.

So if you are interested in the system please give us a call on 0800 0612606.

If not treated this can cause long term damage and mean a lot of recovery work in the Spring.

Do get in touch and book a fungicide treatment if you’re concerned on  020 8417 1752

The Winterisation treatment is a specially blended formulation of Iron and Seaweed that attacks moss as well as providing superb micro nutrients for the turf during the winter months. It promotes root strength rather than top growth so no extra mowing will be involved above that which you would normally be contemplating.

If your lawn is looking a little unhappy over the winter months then we can gladly find you a slot in the diary for this treatment.

This autumn we seem to be experiencing a lot of grub activity in our lawns.  It’s impossible to tell if you have an infestation just by looking at the grass – the grubs live amongst the roots. The easiest way to tell is from animal damage, this either comes in the form of:

1. Birds (generally large strong birds like crows) pecking at the lawn repeatedly so that little tufts of grass are lifted out and discarded all over the lawn.

2. A large amount of small holes dug to a depth of about 1-2 inches by foxes (Yes, foxes are omnivores and they eats grubs as well!)

3. If you’re really unlucky you will have badger damage where the animals peel back the turf in large patches to access the grubs underneath.

The two most common lawn grubs are chafergrubs and leatherjackets (pictured in that order):

These are in turn crane fly larvae or chafer beetle larvae. Unfortunately, these animals are creatures of habit and once they have decided that they like your lawn the problem will return as they will lay eggs in their own breeding ground.

We do however have some very effective treatments that have a long lasting effect, so if you are in our area then just give us a call if you are at all worried and I will be happy to come and have a look.