There are two sorts of Fox Fencing that we have tested; a battery driven fence and a mains driven fence. Each type delivers a high voltage non lethal discharge through wires placed at 12.5 centimetres and 22.5 centimetres from the ground, suspended on dark green plastic posts. Both systems work equally well but we prefer to install the mains driven variety simply because one then avoids the need to consider recharging the battery at intervals – although this is only possible if you have an accessible (circuit breaker protected) outside 3 pin point.

The prices range from £425 plus Vat to £675 plus Vat and we can be more precise about this after we have completed a survey. These prices include one ‘after sales’ visit to check that all is working properly. Further visits if required are £38 plus Vat per visit.

We’re looking at other alternatives, which you may indeed like to try yourself, including ultrasonic devices, (like this one: Fox Repeller FoxWatch) that emits a noise at a frequency that will distress the fox, and various sprays and scent repellents, and even a water spray “scarecrow”  (Water Pest Repeller) that has a motion sensor and a water jet attachment. (This will of course have the added benefit of watering your lawn!)

Foxes mark their territory with faeces which is why one will some times see faeces on fences, walls and compost heaps as well as on lawns and flower/vegetable beds. Fox faeces is a bio hazard and contains a number of pathogens and other risks to human health. It should be removed very carefully, preferably with disposable gloves.

Foxes can be trapped (but not poisoned or gassed) and then dispatched humanely. (It is against the law to release urban foxes into the countryside). Trapping is a short term solution only; a territory once left empty will soon be re-occupied by another fox family and trapping services are usually expensive, typically anything between £250 and £500 per visit. Shooting, although allowed by law, is not usually an option for most people.

So what to do……?

Ideally one would want to keep foxes out of one’s garden before they become established and we have been working with a manufacturer to provide a non lethal fox deterrent which had proved very successful in a countryside environment.

The deterrent is an electric fence which delivers a non lethal but high voltage discharge. It has a low profile, can be either mains or battery driven and need be in place for only a matter of a month or two after which time it can be removed until foxes, usually different ones, start revisiting when it can be reinstalled again, once more for a short period. There is no ‘once and for all’ solution and the fence will need to be deployed every so often if you are in an area troubled by foxes but it will mean no fox digging, no faeces and no hazards to children and pets.

There are over ten thousand urban foxes in the London Metropolitan Area so one can see the size of the problem and why foxes present no easy solution.

Following our own extensive testing, we can now confirm that the system works extremely well in an urban setting. We have also trialled a version for badgers which also works very well, and anecdotally we’re told that squirrels have apparently also been deterred in gardens where this is installed.

So if you are interested in the system please give us a call on 0800 0612606.

If not treated this can cause long term damage and mean a lot of recovery work in the Spring.

Do get in touch and book a fungicide treatment if you’re concerned on  020 8417 1752

This autumn we seem to be experiencing a lot of grub activity in our lawns.  It’s impossible to tell if you have an infestation just by looking at the grass – the grubs live amongst the roots. The easiest way to tell is from animal damage, this either comes in the form of:

1. Birds (generally large strong birds like crows) pecking at the lawn repeatedly so that little tufts of grass are lifted out and discarded all over the lawn.

2. A large amount of small holes dug to a depth of about 1-2 inches by foxes (Yes, foxes are omnivores and they eats grubs as well!)

3. If you’re really unlucky you will have badger damage where the animals peel back the turf in large patches to access the grubs underneath.

The two most common lawn grubs are chafergrubs and leatherjackets (pictured in that order):

These are in turn crane fly larvae or chafer beetle larvae. Unfortunately, these animals are creatures of habit and once they have decided that they like your lawn the problem will return as they will lay eggs in their own breeding ground.

We do however have some very effective treatments that have a long lasting effect, so if you are in our area then just give us a call if you are at all worried and I will be happy to come and have a look.

The infected plants will largely lose any green colour leaving you with yellowing patches on the lawn.The sward will also have a rather red appearance to both stem and leaf. At the height of its attack, little bright pink ‘balls’ are formed and these are very recognisable – like tiny patches of candy floss.

This disease should improve with the addition of nitrogen, but can spread very easily and quickly but a very effective fungicide treatment is available which should suppress the disease and its symptoms within a few days. Of course, if you’re in our area give us a call and we will come as quickly as we can and apply an appropriate treatment for you.

You will know if this disease is present by orange/brown circular patches which will appear on your lawn. As it spreads the patches become larger and more irregular in shape. As the disease matures these patches can have brown edges with yellowing off in the middle. Prolonged humidity (even when cold) can produce sparse white or pink mycelium – these looks a little like small snatches of candy floss.

Although usually found in the Autumn as it favours warm, humid conditions, Fusarium Patch can also appear in spring after there has been snow lying on the lawn for some lengthy period. The disease can spread and take hold under cover of a snow blanket – hence the common name ‘Snow Mould’.
It normally subsides a little as the air temperature warms up and lawns dry out. As with all diseases, it is much easier to prevent than to cure and proper lawn care and maintenance is the answer.

Key to maintaining a healthy lawn is a fertilisation programme to ensure the lawn does not get stressed due to a lack of nutrients, making it vulnerable to attack. In some cases a fungicide treatment can prevent susceptible lawns and/or help stem the tide if the disease is caught early.

If after the recent snow fall you can see evidence of this disease the following steps are a good start:

• Do not walk on lawn when covered with snow and try to minimise traffic until the lawn is dryer.
• Rake out dead grass plants as the weather warms up.
• Re-seed patches that have been infected in Spring.

Or of course if you’re in london give us a call we’d be happy to come and have a look for you and give you bespoke advice for your lawn.

Tradition has it that the best tool for dispersing worm casts is a besom broom, but any brush or even a rake will do.

Mind Your Own Business

Don’t let appearances fool you however, it can soon get out of control as it regenerates easily from any small sections of stem over-looked when weeding or hoeing.

Our solutions? Dig it out and/or apply a total herbicide carefully to the spot where it is appearing. Scarification has also some effect if done regularly.